Eyebrows 101…and Beyond!

Framing the windows to the soul?/iStock

We love eyebrows. In fact, we think that if you’re only going to do two things before you leave the house, it should be 1) groom your brows and, 2) put on some lipstick or gloss. Groomed brows give the eyes the necessary frame, and can make an otherwise unmade-up face look neat.

Of course, who do we look to for guidance? Celebrities (and their makeup artists). We found some great before-and-after pics of celebs’ eyebrow styles (it is hair, after all). And we hit our own Luka Mineral Cosmetics website, Sephora.com, Drugstore.com, and a few others to recommend some of the best products for getting your brows into shape, whether they’re too bushy, too thin, or somewhere in between.

Julia Roberts, Pre-Brow-Intervention

Sephora Professional Brow Comb #11

To start, we tame bushy brows with this sturdy-yet-inexpensive brow and lash comb. $6; click to purchase.

Julia Roberts, Post-Intervention

Tweezerman Pointed Slant Tweezers

These tweezers are Katherine’s favorite, and the favorite of most other professional makeup artists thanks to the super-precise tip, which grabs even the shortest strays. $25; click to purchase.

Anastasia After-Tweeze Cream

Feeling ouchy after a major tweezing? Brow Queen Anastasia’s  After Tweeze Cream uses chamomile extract to soothe skin and eliminate redness, $22; click to purchase.

Luka Mineral Cosmetics Arch & Angle

is an amazing product that colors, defines, and enhances brows. Luka’s Brow Tint fills brows, sets them in place, and emphasizes the natural arch. It is long-lasting and water-resistant, and the extremely creamy wax glides on easily. It comes in 5 shades, and lasts forever. $21.

Madonna, Ripped and Over-Penciled

Madonna and her Softer Brows

Sephora Brow Tint Pen, Anastasia’s Long-Wearing Brow Tint Pen, and TouchBack BrowMarker

Viva la magic marker! These three items all operate like a felt-tip pen, dispensing a tint that clings to both brows and skin, and makes in a cinch to fill in sparse areas, darken grays or too-light brows, or deepen your arch; click here to purchase Sephora’s Brow Tint Pen, $12; here to purchase Anastasia’s Long-Wearing Brow Tint Pen, $21; and here to purchase TouchBack , $20.

Shiseido Makeup Eyebrow and Eyeliner Compact

You can get a two-fer with Shideido’s dual eyeliner and eyebrow compact – the brow powder doubles as an eyeshadow. $29.50; click to purchase.

Maybelline Ultra Brow Brush On Color

For those on a budget, Maybelline offers a simple brow powder that’s just as good as department store brands, $5; click to purchase. Just don’t bother with their applicator; invest in a decent angled brow brush at Sephora, $10.

Oprah, Before Brows

Oprah, After -- and Amazing

Boom Boom Brow Bar’s Push-Up Brow

For those of us over 40, how about a faux brow lift? Push-Up Brow is a highlighter that conceals small hairs (the ones we miss even in the 5X lighted mirror) and highlights the brow bone, adding lift and luminosity. $16; click to purchase.

Boom Boom Brow-ssiere Brow Gel

For those of you with perfectly arched brows, this clear brow-grooming gel is guaranteed not to flake, and keeps those occasional strays in place, $15; click to purchase.

We were going to recommend one of the brow-and-lash growth products crowding the shelves these days, but our favorite isn’t available outside the doctor’s or aesthetician’s office, a salon/spa, or a medi-spa: Image Skincare’s Ageless Lashes. Amazing. Find a source near you by calling 800.796.SKIN (7546).

Spring Beauty Trends: How To Do Them Well

Ashley Greene/The "bare" face

Being based in South Florida, we never watch that “Punxsutawney Phil the Groundhog” thing that is supposed to predict when spring will arrive. It is already spring here by the time the spotlight turns to that furry mammal up in Pennsylvania.

But the glossy magazines are already deep into telling us what’s hot and what’s not for Spring, so we thought we’d give you our opinion on the trending looks. Links to the sites to purchase our recommendations are at the end of the blog.

The “Bare” Face

Yes! Heavy foundation is a no-no for spring (remember all the bare skin during Fashion Weeks?). Time to turn to a tinted moisturizer or one of the new hybrid foundations that are almost the consistency of water. Whatever your choice, be sure you’re wearing a sunscreen underneath or built into the foundation.  Our picks: Luka Nearly Naked Tinted Moisturizer ($32), Bobbi Brown Extra SPF 25 Tinted Moisturizing Balm ($50; for dry skin; this is VERY emollient!), and Chanel‘s new Vitalumiere Aqua Ultra-Light Skin Perfecting Makeup SPF 17 ($46).

Olivia Palermo/matte bronzer

No! Literally going bare-faced, even if you’re 20. You must wear sunscreen every day – it’s the absolute best anti-aging product you can use. Believe us, living under the constant sun and our past bad tanning habits have taken a noticeable toll.

Matte Bronzer

You’d think it would be counter-intuitive to go to a tanning salon if you live in the tropics, but we can’t tell you how many fake-baked, spray-tanned ladies we see all year round.

Yes! Brush on or dab on a sheer, non-sparkly bronzer across the tops of your cheekbones, on your forehead and the bridge of your nose, where the sun would normally hit you. We like Luka’s Here Comes The Sun mineral bronzing powder ($36); Estee Lauder Bronze Goddess Soft Bronzer ($30); and Bobbi Brown All-Over Bronzing Gel SPF 15 ($28).

No! Too dark, too orange, too fake-baked, too-awful tans we see on celebrities like Jessica Simpson, Lindsey Lohan, and Paris Hilton (some of the worst offenders). You’re supposed to look sun-kissed, not sun-mauled.

Zoe Saldana/bright blush

Bright Blush

Yes! Step away from the powder! Instead, try a super-sheer cream or gel-based blush so you skin shows through. We like Luka’s First Blush Cheek & Lip Tint ($20); Tarte Cheek Stain ($30); and Vincent Longo Gel Stain For Lips and Cheeks ($22.50).

No! Opaque or shimmery powder blush, even if you think of the color as being “sunny.” And oily skins who think they SHOULD use powder formulations should try one of these gel blushes. The color stays truer, and they are incredibly lightweight.

Full-On Brows

Gwen Stefani/full-on brows

Yes! We’re totally brow-oriented, and neither of us went in for the thin brows we’ve been seeing for what seems like years. But even ladies with brows as dark as ours need a bit of fill and grooming to look finished. We love all the new tinted brow waxes and felt-tip pen brow markers, and they are so much more user-friendly. We like Luka’s Arch & Angle Brown Wax Tint ($21); Sephora Collection Brow Tint Pen ($12); and Anastasia Brow Pen-Long Wearing Brow Tint ($21).

No! Don’t ignore your brows; if you’re trying to grow them in, they’re going to be uneven and “leggy.” Often, over-plucked brows don’t ever fully grow back to their original thickness and have sparse spots that need attention.

Dianna Agron/pretty pastels

Pretty Pastels

Yes! Try one of the no-shimmer pastel eye shadows that are showing up in everyone’s lines, and concentrate on using it much like an eyeliner along your lash line to enhance your eye color. We like Luka’s Sultry Eyes Mineral Eye Shadow singles in Baby Doll, Organza, Chablis, and Pink Whisper ($20 each); Urban Decay Eye Shadow singles in the matte shades of ABC Gum and Cult ($17 each); and Estee Lauder Pure Color Matte Eyeshadow singles in Summer Linen, Mischievous Mulberry, and Wild Truffle ($20).

No! Don’t take these colors beyond the eyelid and crease. A lid-to-brow dose of these pastel colors will leave you looking like a Peep or an Easter Egg.

Emma Stone/neon bright eyeliner

Neon Brights

Yes! We see three ways to try out all the brightly-colored eye makeup crowding the testers at Sephora: As an eyeliner, as a wash of color on the lid and under the lower lash line at the outer corner,  or as a colored mascara.

Eyeliners we like: Luka’s Wing It! Gel Eyeliner in every one of its 14 shades (except black and brown; $21 each) and Urban Decay’s 24/7 Glide-On Shadow Pencil in Deviant, Electric, Graffiti, and Ransom ($20 each).

Eyeshadows we like: CoverGirl Eye Enhancers in Aqua Paradise palette ($3); NARS Cap Ferrat Trio Eyeshadow ($45); Rimmel London  Glam’Eyes Quad Eyeshadow in State of Grace ($6); and Luka Sultry Eyes Mineral Eye Shadow singles in Berry Exclusive and Left Bank ($20 each).

Color mascaras we like: Bare Escentuals’ Buxom Lash Special Effects Mascara in Blue Noir ($18); blinc Mascara in Blue and Purple ($24); Almay Intense i-Color Mascara in Emerald ($7.49); and Physicians Formula Shimmer Strips Custom Enhancing Mascara Duo ($10.95).

No! Don’t indulge in more than one of these neon ideas at a time, and don’t just slap on an MTV-era neon color with a heavy hand and think you can emphasize any other feature. Neon eye makeup = barest face and nude gloss or lipstick.

Natalie Portman/magenta lips

Magenta Lipstick

Yes! Select a bright lipstick or a gloss-and-liner combination that packs a lot of pigment but is still moisturizing. We like Luka’s Pucker Up Lip Gloss in I’m No Angel and Plum Delight ($20) over Divine Line Lip Liner in Merlot or Valentine ($21 for pencil and refill), NARS Lipstick in Funny Face, Schiap, and Empress Red ($24); and Dior Addict Lipstick in Dior Kiss 578, Show 778, and Collection 865 ($28).

No! Don’t think of trying a color this intense without exfoliating your lips. This color will make your mouth the focus of your face, and dry or flaking lips will not make it a pretty picture.

Selena Gomez/orange lipstick

Orange Lipstick

Yes! This is a color women either love or hate with equal intensity. If you’re going to try orange, don’t assume that the shade you saw on January Jones is the right one for you. Look at the difference in shade and intensity between the espresso-brunette Selena Gomez and the honey-blonde Hilary Duff. Both are wearing orange lipstick

Hilary Duff/orange lipstick

Try for more red and less yellow, and choose the right intensity for your skin tone. We like Guerlian Rouge D de Guerlain Jewel Lipstick Compact in Gipsy ($46); Luka’s Siren Lips Lipstick in Fiery Girl ($25); and Make Up Forever Rouge Artist Intense in #40, a satin bright orange.

No! Safety-cone orange is best left to 18-year-old runway models. Period.

Kate Bosworth/beachy waves

Beachy Waves

This one is especially written by Kel, since Katherine was blessed with mountains of gorgeous curly hair, and Kel just got a lot of black hair, minus the curls and add in the frizz. And no, she’s no jealous. Much.

Yes! Now that John Frieda has discontinued his fabulous Beach Waves (LOVED IT, PLEASE BRING IT BACK!), we’re left with the salt water-based sprays Bumble and Bumble Surf Spray ($23) or David Babaii for WildAid Bohemian Beach Spray ($13.99).

No! Never coat your hair with gel or mousse and air dry to a crunchy Eighties-era mess.

All the Luka Products mentioned are available at our website at lukacosmetics.com. All other products were priced at either Sephora.com, Drugstore.com, Beauty.com and SaksFifthAvenue.com.

Have a beautiful weekend!

Dior’s New TV Ad, Starring Kate Moss for ‘Addict’ Lipstick

The business of high-end cosmetics advertising is HUGE. The iconic brands we all know – YSL, Chanel, Dior, Cle de Peau, Shiseido, Estee Lauder and its myriad brands, Dolce & Gabbana, Giorgio Armani, Lancome – each spend more than the cost of our homes COMBINED (plus your house and your parent’s, too) on print advertising buys alone. And whilst most of the TV advertising you see for cosmetics is for the drug-store brand (Cover Girl, Maybelline, L’Oreal, Almay), when the prestige brands make a commercial, they make a 30-second movie starring some otherworldly beautiful celebrity that happens to sell a perfume or lipstick.

We caught Fashionista.com‘s debut of the highly anticipated 90-second commercial starring Kate Moss for Dior Addict Lipstick (Kate Moss, addict, hmmm?), directed by the prolific music video director, Jonas Ackerlund (Moby, The Prodigy, Madonna, The Cardigans, Metallica, Jamiroqai, Iggy Pop, The Smashing Pumpkins, U2, Ozzy Osbourne, Robbie Williams, Blondie, Jane’s Addiction, Blink 182), who is equally as famous for his feature film Spun, which is in the Guinness Book of World Records for the most edits in a feature film.

The verdict: It’s gorgeous, it’s hot, it’s cool, we want to be Kate, and it makes us want to go buy Dior Addict lipstick even though we have plenty of gorgeous colors in Katherine’s own line, Luka Mineral Cosmetics. Now, that’s good advertising!

Runway Makeup: The Good, the Bad and the WTH? at Paris Fashion Week

Celebrities at Paris Fashion Week/Fashionista.com

What’s not to love about the twice-yearly Fashion Weeks in the U.S. and Europe? At least for those of us who love fashion and beauty,  it is how we keep track of what’s going to be trending, parse out what we really like and will incorporate into our look, and also the chance for a few real LOL moments. Today, we present makeup from Paris Fashion Week, and we think you’ll agree that what we have here are some gorgeous looks, some OK looks, and some that will make you sputter a mouthful of latte all over you keyboard. Ready?

Givenchy/Getty Images

Givenchy: One of those fabulous un-made-up looks that actually takes a practiced hand and some…makeup. We love seeing heavier brows after so many seasons of plucked, bleached and generally overworked eyebrows. No mascara with this look — which has been the case in more shows that you might imagine – but judicious use of concealer, a pretty taupe shadow on lids and below the bottom lashes, contoured rather than blushed cheeks, an d natural lips with just a bit of balm. We loved this one for its bold simplicity, and with this particular model’s bone structure, she looks fierce.

Sonia Rykiel/Getty Images

Sonia Rykiel: This is possibly the prettiest makeup we’ve seen throughout Fashion Weeks, and it’s so summery it seems even more out of place when showing Fall clothes.

No one in their right mind would wait for fall to wear this ultra-flattering, feminine look with gorgeous white-gold and pale pink sparkle eye makeup and a sugar-pink lip colour. Ad in mascara and a well-groomed brow, and it’s “Hello Kitty.”

Balmain/Getty Images

Balmain: Back to the “no-makeup” makeup look at Balmain, with an added grungy shag that says, “Yes, I really am that cool.” Skin is clean and clear, with a touch of ochre-brown shadow, mascara, contoured cheeks (again!) and a natural lip with no shine. Again, a heavier brow is in order, and judicious use of foundation and concealer to perfect the skin.

Christian Dior/Getty Images

Christian Dior: The Dior models were perfectly polished, with arched, defined brows, contoured eye shadow in shades of taupe and brown, mascara, gleaming skin, a smudge of berry lipstick, and a perfectly powdered finish.

John Galliano/Getty Images

John Galliano: A very retro look, circa Clara Bow and the Prohibition Era. Thin, tweezed, rounded brows; heavily shimmered eye shadow with winged cat’s eye liner and tons of mascara; a pink-y powder blush fro the apples of the cheeks and up round the top of the cheekbone and onto the out margins of the forehead, and drawn-on Cupid’s Bow lips in a deeply pigmented  berry color. I’m certain we’ll see a modified version of this in the magazine and on the street, although we don’t think anyone is going to go with the exaggerated shape of the lip and instead use the same color to follow their own natural contours.

Now, here’s where things start to get weird, beginning with the hair…

Issey Miyake/Getty Images

Issey Miyake: Models sported tightly pulled, futuristic high ponytails with painted sections. No way. With the rest of the face completely devoid of makeup, rest assured this isn’t a look even the Club Kids are going to entertain.

Jean-Paul Gaultier/Getty Images

Jean-Paul Gaultier: A towering backcombed beehive that’s one part Marge Simpson, one part often grey-haired British socialite and heir, Daphne Guinness. We could see a highly toned-down version of this, as its basis is a classic, classy updo. Its nicely balanced with strong brows, natural makeup, and a “your lips only better” mouth. Again, not a hint of gloss. In fact, Galliano is one of the only houses to show any shine on the mouth.

And even weirder with the makeup, from the “oh my” to “oh, no way” …

Thierry Mugler/Getty Images

Thierry Mugler: Looking heavily influenced by the film “Black Swan,” models walking for Mugler strutted a highly structured, almost masque-like black smoked shadow and the palest white complexions.

Gareth Pugh/Getty Images

Gareth Pugh: Models wore metallic “eye accessories” and some even flashed LED mouthpieces. Um, no? Even for a runway show this is pretty off the avante garde charts.

Vivienne Westwood: We consistently love her clothes (Helen Mirren , Helena Bonham Carter, and other wore her gowns throughout the 2011 Award Season), but we cannot fathom what this look was supposed to achieve.

Vivienne Westwood/Getty Images

Smears of black and charcoal on the face must have taken some of the attention off the clothes, no? What would we even call this look? The Chimney Sweep?

Viktor & Rolf/Getty Images

Viktor & Rolf: We may love Flowerbomb, but what can we say about Viktor & Rolf sending a cherry-red model down the runway, besides “don’t try this at home”?

Refresh Your Makeup Bag for Spring

All rights reserved by planetjune/Flickr

For us in south Florida, it’s spring. We’re already transitioning from heavy moisturizers and full-coverage foundation to cosmetics that can survive 90%-plus humidity. We know the rest of the country has weeks and perhaps months (with this astounding winter weather) to even think “spring,” but whether it’s still wishful thinking or you’re somewhere that the temperatures are starting to climb, we have some suggestions for the vanity and your makeup bag that will make you feel fresh as the proverbial daisy.

Luka Siren Eyes Mineral Mascara

1. A New Mascara – Three month, ladies. That’s the amount of time the experts say you should use a mascara before abandoning it for hygienic purposes. While it may be tempting to grab one of the scads of drugstore brands that all have those plastic finger-like brushes, Katherine finds they lay down way too much product on the first pass, making a mess and often necessitating a do-over. Also, we are simply partial to Luka’s Siren Eyes, Mascara, because we prefer a dense spooley wand and the mineral pigment base, which does not flake or irritate.

Luka's First Blush Cheek & Lip Tint

2. A Creamy Cheek & Lip Tint – Spring is the time for sheerer textures and brighter colors. Luka’s First Blush Cheek & Lip Tint comes in six mouth-watering shades from Pink Grapefruit to Guava, all with a satiny — but not metallic or shimmery — finish, and can be layered for as much or as little color as you want. Plus, cream blush and dust of translucent powder on top to set literally lasts all day. If you’re doing of wash of color in varying intensities, apply it to the apples of your cheeks, then pat First Blush into your lips with your pinkie finger or apply with a lip brush for a sheer, creamy lip, or top with gloss for a beautiful see-through shine.

L'Oreal's EverSleek System

3. Shampoo and Conditioner – For us, anything but the week or two of “winter” – where we might have 60% humidity and temperatures below 50 – requires vigilant frizz control measures. Promising 48-hour frizz control without the uses of silicones, try L’Oreal EverSleek Sulfate-Free Smoothing System (Shampoo, Conditioner, Deep Conditioner, Frizz-Taming Crème Serum, and Humidity Defying Leave-In Crème). Most smoothing products contain large amount of silicones that can weigh hair down, build up over time, or if you use too much product, leave you a sticky mess. EverSleek is made with natural oils, particularly Argan and Sunflower oils, so your hair stays weightlessly sleek even in high humidity. We like!

Luka's Nearly Naked Tinted Moisturizer

4. A New Foundation – Spring is traditionally when we move from full-coverage, creamy foundation to a lighter, sheerer formula that can withstand the heat. Also, as we are slowly exposed to the sun again, we’re likely to need a different shade than our winter choices. Unless you need a heavy foundation to cover birthmarks, rosacea, or post-treatment/post-op bruising, you can retire your full coverage foundation, unless you wish to continue using it as a spot concealer for under-eye circles.

Luka's Velvet Perfecter Cream-to-Powder

We switch to liquid and oil-free foundations here in the tropics, or just a tinted moisturizer with an SPF so that we’re not laying on so many products that we break a sweat before leaving the house. Luka’s Nearly Naked is a great tinted moisturizer that uses titanium dioxide as its physical sunscreen, so it’s gentle and non-irritating. We also have Velvet Perfecter Mineral Cream-to-Powder Foundation with good UV protection and can be used alone or as a base foundation you may set with our Smooth Touch Pressed Minerals. Smooth Touch is also a pick for your summer foundation, as it can be used wet or dry and is great for oilier skins. None of Luka’s foundations contains fragrance, talc, or bismuth oxychloride.

Luka's Wing It! Gel Eyeliner in Tidal Wave

5. Gel Eyeliners – We saw it and commented on it during our Fashion Week blogs – bright pops of aqua, green, amethyst, and blue eyeliner, as well as some very structured black cat’s eye and winged liner. When you’re playing with colors this intense, the last thing you want is your eyeliner smudging and giving you neon raccoon eyes before the day’s end. Luka’s Wing It! Gel Eye Liner is a long-wearing, waterproof formula that will stay in its place from morning till evening, and we have 14 shades from the most intense black to the brightest greens, blues, aquas, purples, and much more.

Orange Nail Polishes

Chanel's Limited Edition Mimosa Nail Lacquer

6. New Nail Colors — Spring trends include a limited-edition Chanel polish in bright yellow Mimosa; deep green in opaque and shimmer finishes (Estee Lauder’s Wicked Green is the former, Chanel’s Black Pearl the latter); an orange-red on slightly longer, almond-shaped nails — a la Mad Men – rather than the modern short “squoval” appropriate for dark colors — Nails Inc. in Porchester Place, Illamasqua’s Gamma, and OPI’s Y’all Come Back, Ya’ Hear?.

Deep green polishes from Chanel and Estee Lauder

Other trends include pearly or silvery white (try it on your toes with dark or bright polish on the fingernails) from Chanel’s Pearl Drop, MAC’s Frayed to Order, or Essie’s Kisses and Bises; pale lavender-to-lilac shades like Lancome’s Violet Groove, Rescue Beauty Lounge’s Insouciant, or Tracy Reese for Sally Hansen in Delphinium.

Lilacs for Spring

Pearly Whites

And finally, hot pink: Sonia Kashuk’s Jammin, YSL’s #19 Fuchsia Pink, or Rimmel London in Posh Pink. OPI’s “Texas” collection for spring has nearly every one of these trends covered.

Spring Pinks

7. Facial Scrubs – We’re loving some Olay products after years of avoiding drug store skincare, having finally found two face scrubs without ingredients we avoid (harsh scrub particles, silicones, and parabens, just to start) and a device that promises to deliver the same kind of mega-cleaning and product-penetration prep that the very expensive Clairsonic promises.

Olay Pro-X Advanced Cleansing System

Olay’s Pro-X Advanced Cleansing System contains said device and Olay Pro-X Renewal Cleanser, which has super-fine and uniform crystals for deeper exfoliation. We’ve been using this system at night before applying our retinols or glycolics.

Olay Regenerist Thermo Peel

In the morning, we start our day with Olay Regenerist Advanced Anti-Aging Thermal Mini-Peel Daily Treatment with Glycolic Acid and Micro-Crystal Complex (say that without having to pause for a breath!). It’s a happy shade of purple, it heats up when you add water and cleanse your skin with it, and it makes for a perfectly flake-free canvas on which to apply your makeup.

Luka's Divine Shine Mineral Lipstick

8. New Spring Lipsticks and Glosses — Mango, Watermelon, Orchid Pink, and Rose Gold are all trending for spring lip colors – whether traditional lipstick or gloss. The look is either a bright pop of color on the lips with the rest of the face relatively natural, or as in the case of Rose-Gold, an all-over look from eyeshadow to cheek color to the lips, in various intensities. You’ll find all of these yummy colors in Luka’s Divine Shine Lipstick and Pucker Up Lip Glosses.

Luka's Pucker Up Green Tea Lip Gloss

9. A Brow Tint/Wax – After the awful bleached-brow look we saw on various runways, we were highly relieved to see the contrast of natural-looking brows at other shows. Regardless of the brow shape and thickness you choose, grooming and filling them in is a must for a finished face, especially if your only other eye makeup is mascara.

Luka's Arch & Angle Brow Tint/Wax

Luka’s Arch & Angle Brow Tint is long-lasting and water-resistant, keeping your brows in check (and on your face) all day. If your brows are totally au natural and out-of-control, spring for a professional brow shaping. You can then follow the lines created by your brow specialist and maintain the look yourself with a good pair of tweezers, and only the occasional visit to get them re-shaped if you lose the battle.

10. A New Scent: Some of us have signature scents we wear no matter what – and even when we cheat, we always come back. But there are so many amazing fragrances out there, why not have a signature scent for every season?

Katherine's Spring Scent

Spring is traditionally the time to put away your Orientals and musks for more floral or green scents. Katherine’s road-testing Marc Jacobs Daisy Eau So Fresh Eau de Toilette, a lighter version of the original’s juicy pear and grapefruit, topping off violet, rose and cedar mid- and bottom-notes.

Kelly's "Spring" Scent

Kel’s working Tom Ford’s White Patchouli, which for her IS a more spring-like scent, since she tends to wear very earthy scents from Aveda and Comptoir Sud Pacifique, including Aveda Man and L’Eau de Governeur Homme, both men’s fragrances. So, consider this her trying for a bit more femininity.

Have a gorgeous week!

Back to the Classics, Thanks to Chanel

The "New Classic Look"/WSJ.com

Unlike most other department store/designer makeup brands, Chanel has always had a creative director for makeup, a “Karl Lagerfeld of lipstick,” if you will. So, when you see pictures from Chanel’s couture shows in New York or Paris, those are the makeup colors that will be in your local store. It’s kind of exciting, since nothing else from the runways – not the clothes, the hairstyles, or the makeup — filter down to the average woman without needing to be softened up, toned-down, and made more middle-of-the-road.

Makeup artists with their own line like myself dream of being able to have a whole new range of colors and textures each season, but without the support of classic jackets that sell for $6000 and handbags that start roughly at $2500, we have to edit, and follow what’s on trend without going so avante garde that we’re left holding the makeup bag.

That’s why it was so refreshing to see Chanel’s “New Classic Look” as interpreted by artist Peter Philips, the house’s creative director for makeup. He’s the man responsible for the last three years of stand-in-line Chanel nail polish in utterly unconventional colors, from the taupe-toned Particulière, to Jade green, to the Mimosa yellow due to hit stores in May.

Peter Phillips of Chanel Beaute/WSJ.com

Chanel is one of the few labels, with Hermès and Dior, to keep everything in-house, and that puts makeup at the center of the brand’s image, resulting in a runway-to-cosmetic counter coherence that few others have. Analysts estimate privately held Chanel brings in about $3 billion a year in sales, with the three divisions (clothing, makeup, and perfume) contributing about one-third each. Wow, $1 billion in makeup sales alone.

As makeup and fashion trends become more closely tied, more labels are getting into cosmetics; Gucci is one of the most recent additions to the cosmetics counter. But most makeup and perfume lines are outsourced to specialists, my dears. Giorgio Armani and Yves Saint Laurent work with L’Oréal SA; Procter & Gamble Co. does Gucci and Dolce & Gabbana. It is common for the makeup director to be an outside consultant. With me, I am the cosmetics and I am involved in formulating, packaging, color choices, textures, ingredients – all of it. It’s gratifying to see that the colors I have formulated for spring are quite similar to Chanel’s “New Classic Face.”

Backstage at Chanel runway during Paris Fashion Week/WSJ.com

Mr. Phillips’ couture look at the January show was positively demure, using pink, silver, and black around the eyes. His back-to-basics approach is now hitting cosmetics counters with a new Chanel lipstick line whose shades stick to a range of reds, roses and plums. Mr. Phillips told The Wall Street Journal that, “It’s not hard to design a nail-polish color that lasts a season, but a classic must last forever and please women all over the world. There are a whole lot of women worldwide I create for who aren’t interested in fashion.”

Yes, we saw over-the-top, neon-hued, over-bronzed, bleach-browed looks at NYFW [which we wrote about on February 17 and February 23], but with the overall shift to more classic looks, red lipstick is back, with new high-profile launches from Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent and Dior, replacing the more youth-oriented gloss finish popular for the past decade. Eyes are smoky, faces are bronzed. Fashion editors cite the pendulum swing was due to return to tastefulness and prettiness after years of hard, sexy, and flirty looks. Of course, not everyone will give up a trademark look just because trends shift. I wear cat’s-eye liner. In or out of style, that’s my trademark. Some women never switched to gloss; some women will not start wearing tube lipstick.

The $32 tube of Rouge Coco

After working on it for two years, Phillips released the Rouge Coco line of $32 lipstick last year. He was inspired by the shape and motion of applying lip color from the traditional tube, which went by the wayside in favor of swiping on brush-applied gloss. In April, he plans to follow up with Rouge Coco Shine, a creamier version. “I wanted women to rediscover the pleasure of applying lipstick,” he says. “All I see them do is a quick gesture of lip gloss. It’s like fast food.” I have to agree – all the classic Hollywood femme fatales applied lipstick as if it were an art form.

To create the “classic face” shown by Chanel with good-for-your-skin and good-for-the-environment Luka Mineral Cosmetics, start with Luka’s Hold Me Eyeshadow Primer on the eyelids and Blank Canvas Rejuvenating Face Primer on the rest of the face. Wait a few minutes, and then apply Nearly Naked Tinted Moisturizer for a dewy-yet-sheer look. If necessary, spot conceal under-eye circles or imperfections with either Brilliant Disguise Wand Concealer, Pack Your Bags Pot Concealer, or our Ready For My Closeup Camouflage Foundation, which can double as a concealer.

A close-up of the "New Classic Look"

Now that you’ve perfected your canvas, we’re going to add ladylike amounts of color. On the cheeks, I prefer Baby Raspberry First Blush Cheek & Lip Tint. If you prefer a powder, swirl on Cheeky Lady Mineral Pressed Blush in Shell from the apples of your cheeks up to your temples, blending so that it is just a wash of color.

To get those eyes, we’ll use Sultry Eyes Pressed Mineral Eye Shadows in Champagne, Baby Doll and Pink Whisper, from the extreme inner corner up to the arch of the brow, then back down to the eyelid, blending out just beyond the outer eyelid. Create a cat’s eye liner with our Wing It! Gel Eyeliner, starting at mid-pupil and winging it out in a heavier line to curve up at the end just beyond the outer corner of your eye. The classic would be to use true Blackout, but depending on your complexion you might prefer to use Chocolate Mousse or Black Cherry. Finish the eyes with Siren Lashes Mineral Mascara in either Black or Brown on the upper lashes only. Allow that coat to dry and apply a second coat of mascara to the outer third of your lashes, where the eye liner gets heavier and starts curving up.

Be sure to brush your brows, and set them with Arch & Angle Brow Tint, a waxy formula that not only fills in the brow, but sets them in place with a waterproof formula.

Finally, you need a classic pink lip. The look here is achieved by using a creamy, opaque lipstick topped with a shimmery gloss. I suggest Divine Shine Lipstick in Charmed, Good Looking, Promiscuous or Youthful, depending on your lip color and skin tone. Top with Shimmer Up or Perfect Pink Pucker Up! Lip Gloss. Et viola! You are wearing the new classic face.

Luka Divine Shine Mineral Lipstick, $25.00

I pride myself in having a line with textures and colors that can compete with any designer line, but with all-mineral based products that are much better for a wider range of skins, as well as soothing and healing for delicate post-procedure and post-operative skin. And my lipsticks are NOT $32.00!!

Au revoir, until next week…

…And the Award Goes To: BEST OSCAR MAKEUP

Scarlett Johansen/InStyle.com

Well, this is it. The 2011 award season came to its official end Sunday night with the 83^rd Annual Academy Awards. At this point we all know who the award winners and losers were; but who were the winners in the makeup department (and I don’t mean theatrical makeup)? This is our opinion of the night’s best and a few misfires…

Scarlett Johanssen: Best Eye Makeup, Worst hair

Since she was wearing Dolce & Gabbana, their makeup artist created Scarlett’s smoldering eye look, a blend of multiple colors (light gold, copper, and blue black) along the lid, rimming her eyes with both gold and black eyeliner for a glittery, dimensional look. He wisely kept the rest of her face very neutral – juts groomed brows and a sheer lip gloss in a pinkish shade that picked up the tones of her deep plum gown. We happen to love her new bob, but the styling tonight was a complete misfire. Instead of looking kind a bit renegade, she just looked like she did absolutely nothing, including washing her hair. Plenty of bloggers and fashion observers loved her hair; we just can’t get on the bandwagon.

Michelle Williams/InStyle.com

Michelle Williams: Prettiest Eye and Lip Duo

Some of the opinions we read Monday morning thought Michelle Williams, with her platinum pixie, bone-colored crystal dress and delicate makeup looked too insubstantial, and one blogger called her “Most Monotone.” We disagree; we thought her face had just the right amount of color: Smudged sparkly pewter eye shadow on the top and bottom lash lines, a few faux lashes, and an overall dusting of sparkly white shadow. Jeanne Lobell, her makeup artist, added a drop of foundation to the star’s pink lipstick helped make “the lips a part of the face, not a separate statement.” Just lovely, and the sort of subtle Ms. Williams is known for.

Halle Berry/Celebuzz.com

Halle Berry and Gwyneth Paltrow: Best Skin

Gwyneth Paltrow/InStyle.com

Halle Berry’s amazing deep honey skin took her glittery nude gown to amazing heights. Chanel makeup artist Kara Yoshimoto Bua mixed three shades of Chanel Mat Lumiere Matte Fluid Makeup to create the Revlon spokeswoman’s (?!?) candlelit glow. Ad in a subtle smoky eye and a soft peach blush, her skin looked simply surreal. At the other end of the spectrum, Gwyneth Paltrow also proved that she can steal the show with her own with radiant skin. Her monochromatic nude eyeshadow, plentiful mascara, barely-there blush, and nude-with-a hint-of-honey lip gloss made the lovely blonde glow against her own platinum lame gown, slit down to there.

Mandy Moore/InStyle.com

Mandy Moore: Best Lipstick

With a crystal-beaded, barely there-gown, Mandy Moore’s makeup artist Kayleen McAdams thought she needed a real pop of vibrant color. The answer: This season’s hot shade, an orangey-red. NARS Red Square Velvet Lip Pencil created a matte tangerine version, which McAdams perfected by first lining the mouth, then dabbing extra pigment into the lips with her fingertips. You can get the same look with Luka’s Divine Line lipliner in Ginger and Divine Shine lipstick in Fiery Girl.

Hailee Steinfeld/InStyle.com

Sharon Stone/Getty

Hailee Steinfeld and Sharon Stone: Most Age Appropriate
True Grit supporting actress nominee Hailee Steinfeld bucked the all-too-common trend of ‘tween and teen actresses trying for inappropriately sexy, by looking a dressing like the 14-year-old she is. A well-placed thin black headband, ballerina’s soft bun, and petal pink blush kept this ingenue’s look fresh and fun. On the other hand, Sharon Stone’s fierce updo, dramatic makeup, and sultry black gown made 53 look like the new 30.

Camilla Alves/InStyle.com

Camila Alves: Best Significant Other
The ever-hot Matthew McConaughey’s partner and mother of his children, Camila Alves, is on her way to a career of her own as host of Bravo’s Sheer Genius and handbag designer for QVC. She stole the spotlight with her sleek, center-parted updo, subtle makeup, and plunging neckline. Her center-parted bun reminded some bloggers of the spring Chanel runway show at NYFW.

Anne Hathaway: Best Old School Hollywood

Anne Hathaway/InStyle.com

Whether you loved or hated her hosting duties with James Franco (we loved), the exquisite Anne Hathaway did what she does best on the Red Carpet: a classic updo, bold red lips, and gorgeous bronze-free skin. With every costume change, she simply was more gorgeous. Get the same red lips by lining and filling the entire lip wit Luka’s Divine Line lip liner in Valentine, and Divine Shine Lipstick in Margot, Moulin Rouge or Fiery Girl, depending on the shade of red most suited to your skin.

Mila Kunis/InStyle.com

Mila Kunis: Best Overall
The dress: Perfect. The hair: A messy nape-of-neck knot that reminded us what role won her a best supporting actress nomination for Black Swan. The makeup: Dewy, subtle colors and textures were she normally opts for bolder looks. This sweet-meets-sexy gown and look bumped her up to a whole new level of cool.